“Take the Time” to Truly Live — Discover Bas-Saint-Laurent
The tourism slogan “Prendre le temps” — to take your time — couldn’t better capture the essence of Bas-Saint-Laurent, a region where tranquility meets depth, and where slowing down doesn’t mean doing less — it means experiencing more.
This peaceful stretch of coastline along the St. Lawrence River charms visitors with its maritime heritage, creative culture, and inspiring outdoor landscapes. I’m sharing some of my favourite cultural discoveries, outdoor adventures, and gourmet stops — updated with 2023 highlights — to help you plan your next trip to this unforgettable region, whether it’s this year or the next.
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🚗 Day 1: Montréal ➜ La Pocatière ➜ St-Denis-de-la-Bouteillerie ➜ Kamouraska ➜ Saint-André-de-Kamouraska
(Approx. 4 hours / 400 km)
My most vivid memories in a flash:
Setting off on a new adventure; driving along the river and not knowing where to stop because every view was breathtaking; slowing down in the quaint village of St-Denis-de-la-Bouteillerie; sharing a meal with dear friends who now call Kamouraska home; watching a sunset painted in shades of pink and orange; and falling asleep in an incredible cliffside perch built by the local circus troupe.
🎭 Cultural Highlights
Cirque de la Pointe-Sèche – Named after the former riverside village of Pointe-Sèche, this one-of-a-kind performance takes place on a 60-foot rock face along the St. Lawrence River in Saint-Germain-de-Kamouraska. Acrobats and aerial artists bring magic to the cliffs, inviting audiences into surreal worlds where art, nature, and raw emotion collide. Much like Kamouraska itself, the Cirque is a blend of rustic tenderness and untamed energy — a moment of vertigo, wonder, and awe that makes you lose your bearings in the best possible way.
Perchoirs du Cirque – Inspired by the grace and daring of circus artists, these five unique cliffside cabins redefine the meaning of “staying with a view.” Suspended from rock walls or perched atop hillsides, each architectural gem blends seamlessly into the natural landscape, offering breathtaking panoramas of the mighty St. Lawrence River.
✨ New in 2023 – The Route des Navigateurs Discovery Trail
Stretching from La Pocatière to Sainte-Luce, this new interactive trail features 14 interpretive panels exploring the region’s maritime soul — lighthouses, shipwrecks, navigation, and the river’s living ecosystem. Through videos, interviews with maritime historian Samuel Côté, stories from First Nations elders, and local legends, visitors can immerse themselves in the river’s fascinating history while enjoying a scenic drive along the coast.
🏞️ Outdoor Highlights
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Walk by the River – Stroll along the shoreline from the Parc de l’Ancien-Quai in Saint-André-de-Kamouraska and soak in the serenity of the St. Lawrence.
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Adventure Rentals at SEBKA – At the Société d’écologie de la batture de Kamouraska (SEBKA), you can rent gear for hiking, kayaking, or even rock climbing — the perfect base for outdoor lovers.
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Mountain Biking at Boisé Beaupré – Stop in La Pocatière for a spin through the Boisé Beaupré trails, a hidden gem for cyclists.
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✨ New in 2023 – Marine Wildlife Excursions
Climb aboard a 6.7-metre zodiac with Captain Manon Paradis of Les Excursions de la Providence and explore the river from Kamouraska to its nearby islands. Along the way, you’ll spot seals, seabirds, and maybe even whales — all while hearing fascinating tales and maritime legends shared by this passionate local guide.
🍽️ Gourmet Stops
Brûlerie du Kamouraska – Start your morning with the comforting aroma of freshly roasted coffee at this beloved local café. The Brûlerie du Kamouraska is more than just a coffee stop — it’s a gathering place where locals, travellers, and artists mingle, all while enjoying river views and pastries that rival any big-city bakery.
Côté Est – A culinary landmark in Kamouraska, Côté Est celebrates the flavours of the St. Lawrence region with creativity and authenticity. On the menu: local seafood, wild herbs, and regional products transformed into seasonal dishes that reflect the soul of Bas-Saint-Laurent. Dining here feels like tasting the land and sea in one memorable bite.
Microbrasserie Tête d’Allumette – End the day by the river with a craft beer in hand at this iconic microbrewery. Located right on the St. Lawrence, Tête d’Allumette brews its beers with a wood-fired system — the only one of its kind in Quebec — and offers a relaxed patio perfect for sunset watching. It’s the kind of place where you’ll want to linger, just to take in the view and the warmth of good company.
🚴♀️ Day 2: Kamouraska ➜ Cycling the Circuit des Églantiers ➜ Notre-Dame-du-Portage ➜ Pohénégamook
(Approx. 1 hour / 85 km)
My most memorable moments:
Walking with my dog, Kenya, along the St. Lawrence River at low tide; smiling under a brilliant blue sky while admiring the unique rocky monadnocks scattered across the Kamouraska plains; pedalling the Circuit des Églantiersstarting from the heart of Kamouraska; passing beautifully preserved heritage homes along Route 132; sipping a glass of wine at Auberge du Portage; and reconnecting with the peaceful beauty of Pohénégamook and its shimmering lake.
🏛️ Cultural Stop
Heritage Homes Along Route 132
Take the time to slow down along Route 132, where century-old homes proudly showcase their architectural details — mansard roofs, ornate woodwork, and colourful facades typical of Bas-Saint-Laurent’s maritime charm. Each house tells a story of the families who built their lives by the river.
🚴♂️ Outdoor Highlights
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Cycle the Circuit des Églantiers – This scenic 42 km loop (intermediate level) starts right from the village of Kamouraska. You’ll ride past pastoral fields, river views, and small coastal hamlets where time seems to stand still.
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Extend the Ride – For avid cyclists, longer routes depart from Kamouraska, including a 78 km round-trip to Rivière-du-Loup or a 62 km ride to La Pocatière — both offering spectacular landscapes and plenty of photo-worthy stops.
🍷 Gourmet Stop
Auberge du Portage – Treat yourself to a relaxing evening at this charming riverside inn and spa in Notre-Dame-du-Portage. The menu celebrates regional products and fine Quebec cuisine, paired with a breathtaking sunset view over the St. Lawrence. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after a day of pedalling.
💡 Travel Tip:
If you have extra time, venture south along the Route des Frontières — a 90 km scenic route that follows the borders of Quebec, New Brunswick, and Maine. It’s dotted with panoramic lookouts and hidden gems. I only drove from Saint-André-de-Kamouraska to Pohénégamook before heading north toward Lac Témiscouata, but if your schedule allows, it’s a route worth exploring in full.
🥾 Day 3: Pohénégamook ➜ Hiking the Three Borders Trail ➜ Pohénégamook
My most memorable moments:
Having breakfast with my feet in the sand at the Base de plein air du lac Pohénégamook, sipping a latte while exploring a café that feels like a living museum, hiking a stretch of the Sentier des 3 Frontières (Three Borders Trail)and feeling as though I’d travelled far from home, admiring the panoramic view from the Belvédère de la Croix as night fell and the illuminated cross came to life, and ending the day with a cozy dinner among friends — the perfect way to celebrate a small but meaningful getaway.
🏛️ Cultural Stop
Chenous Café-Boutique & Museum – Step inside this nostalgic café-boutique where every object tells a story. Located in a century-old house, Chenous blends the charm of a local coffee shop with the intimacy of a small museum. Browse through antiques, regional crafts, and photographs that trace the history of Pohénégamook and its surrounding communities.
🏖️ Outdoor Highlights
Beachside Fun at the Base de plein air du lac Pohénégamook
This beloved outdoor base offers one of the region’s nicest sandy beaches — perfect for relaxing, swimming, or enjoying water sports. You can rent paddleboards, kayaks, canoes, or even a small laser sailboat to explore the calm waters of Lake Pohénégamook.
Hike or Paddle the Three Borders Trail
The Sentier des 3 Frontières (Three Borders Trail) is a fascinating route that connects Quebec, New Brunswick, and Maine. It can be explored on foot, by bike, or even by boat — following the navigable network of the Saint-François River, lakes, and the Saint John River over a 76 km stretch from Pohénégamook to Saint-François-de-Madawaska. Along the way, you’ll experience vast forests, peaceful waterways, and the feeling of being at the edge of three worlds.
Belvédère de la Croix Lookout
For one of the most iconic views in Pohénégamook, make your way up to the Belvédère de la Croix, overlooking the lake and the neighbourhoods of Saint-Éleuthère and Escourt. At sunset, the giant illuminated cross creates a magical glow over the landscape — a must-see moment for photographers and dreamers alike.
✨ Travel Tip:
If you’re visiting with your dog, this region is wonderfully pet-friendly — many trails, beaches, and cafés welcome furry companions, making it easy to explore without leaving anyone behind.
🍴 Gourmet Stops
Chenous Café-Boutique d’Antan – This charming café-boutique is a little time capsule where nostalgia meets comfort. Nestled in a century-old house, Chenous serves freshly brewed coffee and homemade treats while doubling as a small local museum. It’s the perfect place to pause, sip a creamy latte, and soak up the village’s history and character — surrounded by antiques and the scent of baked goods.
Microbrasserie Le Secret des Dieux – End your day with a local beer crafted by the divine hands behind Le Secret des Dieux. Located in a former monastery in Pohénégamook, this microbrewery blends history, architecture, and flavor beautifully. Each beer has a story, inspired by the legends and landscapes of the Bas-Saint-Laurent. Pair it with a gourmet pub meal or take a few bottles back to your chalet for the perfect evening by the fire.
🚲 Day 4: Pohénégamook ➜ Lac Témiscouata ➜ Cycling the Petit Témis ➜ Lac Témiscouata
(Approx. 1h15 / 90 km)
My most memorable moments:
Grabbing a latte at Zèle Café, creatively set inside a refurbished shipping container; hopping back on my gravel bike to ride a 60 km stretch of the Petit Témis between Cabano and Dégelis; stopping countless times to take photos along the majestic Lac Témiscouata, framed by lush ferns and steep cliffs that feel like a hidden jungle; and ending the day wrapped in the quiet comfort of my lakeside cocoon.
🎭 Cultural Stop
4 Scènes – For an evening of live entertainment, check out 4 Scènes, a multidisciplinary venue that brings theatre, music, and visual arts to life across the Témiscouata region. It’s the cultural heart of the area, where local talent meets touring artists — a perfect way to experience the creativity and spirit of the community.
🌲 Outdoor Highlights
Lac Témiscouata & Its National Park
The vast and tranquil Lac Témiscouata lies at the heart of a breathtaking national park that combines lowland forests and shimmering waterways. Explore 8 hiking trails totaling 35 km, offering both easy strolls and more challenging climbs. The park is also an archaeological treasure — artifacts discovered here reveal over 10,000 years of human presence, making it one of Quebec’s most historically rich natural sites.
Ride the Petit Témis
Welcome to the first interprovincial bike trail in Canada, linking Quebec and New Brunswick. The Petit Témisstretches 134 km along the old railway corridor, covered in compact gravel and featuring gentle slopes that never exceed 4%. Whether you cycle just a section — like the scenic Cabano–Dégelis loop (60 km round trip) — or take on the full route, you’ll enjoy endless forest canopies, lakeside views, and peaceful moments surrounded by nature. It’s the definition of slow travel on two wheels.
✨ Travel Tip:
The region is ideal for gravel biking, with smooth, well-maintained trails and numerous rest stops. Bring your camera — sunrise and sunset reflections on Lac Témiscouata are simply unforgettable.
☕ Gourmet Stop
Zèle Café – Creativity meets comfort at this unique coffee stop built inside a repurposed shipping container. Zèle Caféhas quickly become a local favorite for cyclists, travelers, and coffee lovers passing through Lac Témiscouata. Enjoy a perfectly brewed latte or an iced espresso on the terrace while watching the rhythm of small-town life unfold around you.
The minimalist, industrial design contrasts beautifully with the surrounding nature — a true hidden gem where simplicity and authenticity come together in every sip.
🚤 Day 5: Lac Témiscouata ➜ Ferry Crossing (Notre-Dame-du-Lac to St-Juste-du-Lac) ➜ Grande Fourche Beach ➜ Rivière-du-Loup
(Approx. 1h30 / 115 km)
My most memorable moments:
Feeling the sun warm my skin between passing showers; daydreaming about setting sail while watching the boats moored at the marina; reluctantly leaving the peaceful shores of Lac Témiscouata behind; enjoying an apéritif and a picnic on the soft sand of Grande Fourche Beach in Rivière-du-Loup; and wrapping up the day by buying fresh local products to savor later.
🕯️ Cultural Stops
Pot à l’Eau-de-Vie Lighthouse, Rivière-du-Loup – Perched on an island in the middle of the St. Lawrence, this charming lighthouse tells the story of navigation and resilience on the river. Its name, which means “Still Pot,” is as intriguing as its history — and the view from its rocky perch is simply unforgettable.
Bas-Saint-Laurent Museum, Rivière-du-Loup – Dive into the region’s rich heritage at this thoughtfully curated museum, where art, history, and human stories intertwine. Discover the maritime roots, local traditions, and evolution of the communities that shaped the heart of the Lower St. Lawrence.
🌊 Outdoor Highlights
Lac Témiscouata Ferry Crossing – Stretching 45 km long and 2 km wide, this serene lake offers one of the most scenic ferry rides in Eastern Quebec. As you glide between Notre-Dame-du-Lac and St-Juste-du-Lac, admire the calm water framed by rolling hills and dense forests. The lake also feeds the Madawaska River, which flows all the way into the Saint John River — a reminder of how beautifully interconnected these landscapes are.
Grande Fourche Beach, Rivière-du-Loup – A local favorite for its quiet atmosphere and soft sands, Grande Fourche Beach is the perfect place to unwind after a day on the road. Easily accessible from the municipal campground, it’s ideal for a picnic, a swim, or a golden-hour stroll as the sun sets over the St. Lawrence.
🍽️ Gourmet Stops
Le St-Patrice – A culinary landmark in Rivière-du-Loup, Le St-Patrice offers refined Quebecois cuisine with a creative twist. Fresh, local ingredients are the stars here — whether you’re enjoying seafood from the river, market vegetables, or a decadent dessert. The warm ambiance and attentive service make it a perfect spot for a relaxed evening meal.
Microbrasserie Aux Fous Brassant – End the day on a flavorful note at this popular microbrewery, where passion for beer meets a love of storytelling. Each brew has its own character — some bold and hoppy, others smooth and malty — and the menu pairs perfectly with their craft creations. Grab a pint, enjoy the casual vibe, and toast to another day of discovery along the St. Lawrence.
🌊 Day 6: Rivière-du-Loup ➜ Trois-Pistoles ➜ Rimouski
(Approx. 1h15 drive / 110 km)
My most memorable moments:
Taking in the breathtaking view of the St. Lawrence River and filling my lungs with salty, fresh air from the Belvédère de l’Anse; following the majestic shoreline, constantly in awe of the region’s raw beauty; savoring a picnic by the water with local delicacies — including one of the best cheeses I’ve ever tasted from Fromagerie des Basques in Trois-Pistoles; finally visiting the Distillerie du Saint-Laurent, my ultimate Quebec gin crush; and ending the day on a high note, grateful for every sensory moment along the river.
🏛️ Cultural Stops
Rimouski Regional Museum – Facing the sea in the heart of Rimouski’s downtown, this museum is housed in the oldest church building east of Quebec City. It’s dedicated to contemporary art, history, and science, and brings each to life through thoughtful exhibitions, cultural events, and educational programs. Whether you’re an art lover or simply curious about the local heritage, this stop offers a meaningful look into the soul of the Lower St. Lawrence.
Maison Lamontagne (1744) – One of the last surviving examples in North America of colombage pierroté, a medieval timber-and-clay building technique. Classified as a historical monument, the house offers guided tours in summer (and by reservation at other times), letting visitors step back nearly three centuries in time. It’s a tangible link to Quebec’s rural past — humble, enduring, and full of character.
🌅 Outdoor Highlight
Belvédère de l’Anse – Just off Route 132, this lookout point is an easy stop — and an absolute must. From here, you’ll enjoy a sweeping panoramic view over the Parc de la Pointe, the river islands, and the vast St. Lawrence beyond. It’s a favorite local spot for watching the sunset, camera in hand, with the scent of sea spray in the air.
🧀🍸 Gourmet Stops
Fromagerie des Basques – Located in Trois-Pistoles, this family-run cheese factory has become a must for lovers of fine Quebec cheeses. Sample their iconic Le Cheval Noir or Le P’tit Basque, and don’t miss the opportunity to take home a few wedges for your next picnic. Rich, creamy, and deeply tied to the terroir, their cheeses are the taste of Bas-Saint-Laurent itself.
Distillerie du Saint-Laurent – An unmissable stop for spirit enthusiasts. Overlooking the river, this craft distillery produces award-winning gin and whisky infused with local botanicals — seaweed, wild herbs, and spruce tips among them. Every bottle tells a story of the St. Lawrence’s power and purity. Stop by for a tasting or a guided tour, and you’ll understand why this place has captured the hearts (and palates) of travelers across Quebec.
🏞️ Day 7: Rimouski ➜ Hike at the Canyon des Portes de l’Enfer ➜ Bic National Park
(Approx. 1h drive / 75 km)
My most memorable moments:
Allowing myself (almost) a slow morning; spending precious time with my dog, Kenya; venturing inland to uncover a hidden gem — the awe-inspiring yet little-known Canyon des Portes de l’Enfer; descending the 300 steps toward the Rimouski River, Kenya leading the way; crossing Quebec’s highest suspended footbridge (63 meters high!) before beginning the aptly named “descent into hell”; photographing the dramatic waterfalls surrounded by cliffs and mossy rocks; and finally returning to the calm beauty of Parc national du Bic for one last peaceful night by the sea.
🌲 Outdoor Highlights
Canyon des Portes de l’Enfer – A breathtaking natural wonder, carved deep into the earth by the Rimouski River and framed by 90-meter-high cliffs. The site features a network of trails ranging from 1 to 14 km, offering viewpoints, waterfalls, and forested paths where silence reigns. The highlight? Crossing the spectacular suspension bridge — the highest in Quebec — before descending into the depths of the canyon itself. This off-the-beaten-path experience is pure adventure wrapped in tranquility.
Bic National Park – A must-see gem of the St. Lawrence Estuary. With 25 km of hiking trails, 15 km of cycling paths, and sea kayaking opportunities, the park showcases a stunning mix of rocky capes, gentle bays, and islands scattered along the coast. Whether at sunrise or sunset, the light transforms the landscape into an impressionist painting — seals bask on the rocks, seabirds soar overhead, and the scent of saltwater lingers in the air.
🍤 Gourmet Stop
Cantine Côtière – Chez Pierre – End your journey with a taste of seaside simplicity. This beloved coastal canteen serves up fresh seafood, crispy fries, and homemade sauces in a relaxed, friendly setting right by the water. The menu is unpretentious but bursting with flavor — the perfect final stop to savor the essence of the Bas-Saint-Laurent before heading home.
🌊 Day 8: Bic National Park ➜ Montréal
(Approx. 5h drive / 520 km)
My most memorable moments:
Feeling humbled and inspired by the rich, varied landscapes of Bic National Park — a compact 33 km² territory that seems to contain the essence of all of Quebec’s natural beauty. Rediscovering the coves, rocky beaches, and windswept bays that had captured my heart on past visits. Choosing to hike along Les Murailles Trail all the way to Pic Champlain, where the St. Lawrence stretches endlessly into the horizon. Feeling a touch of melancholy as it came time to drive back home — yet grateful for every breathtaking view of the river along the road.
🏛️ Cultural Stops
Rimouski Regional Museum – Facing the sea in downtown Rimouski, this museum occupies the oldest church building east of Quebec City. It celebrates contemporary art, history, and science, curating rotating exhibitions and interactive events that bridge the past and present. It’s the perfect way to round out a journey through the cultural and natural heart of the Lower St. Lawrence.
Maison Lamontagne (1744) – A rare gem of Quebec’s architectural heritage, this historic house is one of the last examples in North America of the colombage pierroté technique, a medieval timber-and-clay construction style. Classified as a heritage monument, it welcomes visitors in summer and during December, with off-season visits available by reservation. Stepping inside feels like entering a different century.
🌲 Outdoor Highlight
Bic National Park – With 25 km of hiking trails and 15 km of cycling paths, Bic is a playground for nature lovers. Its mix of rugged cliffs, tidal flats, and quiet coves makes it one of Quebec’s most photogenic parks. You can even explore its vast estuarine landscape by sea kayak, gliding between seals and seabirds while soaking in the park’s timeless calm. Whether you hike, paddle, or simply sit and watch the tide roll in, Bic offers the perfect farewell to your Bas-Saint-Laurent adventure.
🥖 Gourmet Stop
Boulangerie Folles Farines – Before hitting the road back to Montréal, stop by this artisan bakery in Rimouski. Known for its flaky pastries, crusty breads, and local ingredients, it’s a favorite among travelers and locals alike. Pick up a warm croissant or a loaf of sourdough for the journey home — a final, comforting taste of the region’s artisanal spirit.
👉 For more information about cycling in this region.
👉 For more information about hiking in this region.
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